Following in the footsteps of “clean girl” makeup and “quiet luxury” fashion, natural nails are now having a moment. Of course, polish will always be popular, but there’s been a noted cultural shift toward simple manicures lately, with an emphasis on bare, healthy nails. “Beauty trends tend to cycle between phases of maximalism and minimalism. We’re currently in a moment of minimalism,” celebrity nail artist Sonya Belakhlef tells SELF, adding that a lot people are also tired of the upkeep (read: regular salon appointments) required to maintain intricate nail looks.
That’s all fine and dandy—unless years of being a devoted gel- or acrylics-wearer have left your nails in need of some serious TLC. To be fair, it’s not that these types of manicures are damaging in their own right. Rather, the removal process is public enemy number one. “People get impatient and end up ripping or peeling off gel polish or acrylics,” Belakhlef says—a guaranteed way to cause serious damage. Even professional removal, if done incorrectly and with overly zealous filing or scraping, can wreak havoc: Your nails are kind of like a puff pastry, made up of multiple layers that lift and flake off when they’re assaulted in this way, they explain.
All of the above can leave your tips looking, in a word, rough. “This type of damage typically results in surface irregularities like bumps and grooves, as well as peeling, splitting, and breakage,” Dana Stern, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City and the founder of nail care company Dr. Dana, tells SELF.
But don’t reach for the polish in shame: There is hope. If you’re ready to rehab your nails and try a beautifully bare mani, you’ve come to the right place. Here, we compiled a comprehensive list of expert-backed advice for whipping your tips into tip-top shape—so you can fully commit to your natural nail journey.
1. Start with a clean slate.
At the risk of sounding obnoxiously obvious, make sure your nails are completely bare and free of any enhancements or polish. Then, cut them. While it may be upsetting to lose the length, if your nails are flaky and weak, chances are they’re just going to end up breaking anyway; spare yourself the heartache and cut them down short now, Belakhlef advises.
Then, file them into your desired shape, but do so carefully: Sawing away at damaged nails with a too-rough file can further exacerbate peeling and splitting, nail artist Aaliyah Smith tells SELF. She advises using a file that’s at least 180 grit (the lower the number, the coarser the texture). One to try: the Gelish 180 Grit File. Alternately, Dr. Stern recommends a glass tool like the Londontown Glass Nail File, which won’t cause microscopic splits and tears along the edge of the nail—and will leave you with super smooth results. Even so, it’s a good idea to file no more than once per week.
2. Consider exfoliating (yes, your nails).
File this one under “Who would’ve thought?” “It can be helpful to exfoliate, then moisturize. It’s a concept we’re familiar with in skin care, but it’s completely applicable to nails too,” Dr. Stern says. “You want to remove the superficial damage so that you can more effectively treat and hydrate.”.